Dancing in Bali

Nope, we didn’t go out dancing in Bali, but we did watch a lot of dancing.  Part of the fun of touring Bali is having the chance to see traditional Balinese dancing.   We caught our first performance a couple of days after getting to Ubud, at the small Pura Saraswati temple that’s surrounded by a water garden filled with giant lotus blossoms.  The performance included a sampling of different Balinese styles of dance, all accompanied by a gamelan, a Balinese orchestra of sorts that involved what seemed to be a lot of xylophones, drums, and gongs.  (John would be much better at describing the music than I am.)  The first dance that night was the legong, a style we would see again later during our visit in Ubud.  Balinese dancing in general is very different than western styles of dancing, and legong is slow moving and involves strange and intricate hand and foot movements and dramatic facial expressions.  That night, the dancers performed the first half of the legong with their eyes shut–I don’t know how they knew their way around the stage, but they performed the dance totally synchronized.

Next up was the kebyar duduk, a solo male dance that is mostly performed in a seated position, and is designed to be responsive to the music that the gamelan is playing.

That was followed by the fisherman dance, where the three dancers acted out the life of fishermen as they fish to earn their living.

Then the baris warrior dance, performed by an adolescent boy to reenact the emotions he’ll experience as he prepares to become a warrior and go to battle.

Finally the nyamar dance, which is based on an old Javanese story about a couple in love that has been forcibly separated but that reunites just in time for the woman to stop the man’s marriage to an evil impostor.

  

  

Later during our Bali visit, when we were visiting the south part of the island, we saw a sunset performance of the kecak dance at Pura Luhur Uluwatu, a huge temple complex at the southern tip of Bali that overlooks the Indian Ocean.  The kecak was a totally different kind of dance.  Instead of a gamelan orchestra, a group of men surrounding a bonfire chant the word “kecak” over and over again at different speeds and rhythms to create a musical sound.  Then, while the men are chanting, dancers perform the ramayana, an ancient Hindu epic tale originating in India.  It tells the story of Rama, who represents the god Vishnu, and Rama’s wife Sita, who is abducted by the evil king Ravana.  With the help of some magical monkeys, Rama is able to rescue Sita and bring her home.  The performance was packed with Japanese tourists, and we got a kick out of their “oohs” and “aahs” that they murmured at different points during the show.  Here are some pictures of the kecak dance, along with a video that really gives you a sense of what it sounds like.

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North, South Tour of Bali

After a relaxing week in Ubud, we headed out to see other parts of the island.  I used my first trip to Bali as a guide (my very first trip out of the US was to Bali, back in 2001) and planned a north/south sightseeing route bisected by a short stay in the northern town of Lovina, where, from my first trip, I remembered there to be coarse, gray beaches and beautiful sunsets.

We were told by a relative that we should go see the Temple of the Fallen Moon, a famous temple just outside of Ubud that houses the largest, single-piece cast drum in the world.  So, we headed there first.  Unfortunately, the drum is hidden away in an area of the temple that you’re not allowed to visit, so we couldn’t see it.  But, later on our trip we would see a similar but smaller drum in the Indonesia section of Singapore’s Asian Civilizations Museum.

  

We also visited another temple, Pura Tirta Empul, where, for over 1000 years, the Balinese people have come to pray and bathe in the holy spring waters on top of which the temple was built.  It was certainly one of the most beautiful temples we saw – the spring water was crystal clear.  There were several ceremonies going on while we were there, so we didn’t take many pictures so as not to be invasive.  But, here’s a quick picture I snapped of one of the bathing pools.

       

After the temples, we continued north through Kintamani, passing Mt. Batur as we did on our bike tour, and on to Lovina.  Lovina had changed a great deal in 10 years, much like the rest of the Bali that I remembered from my previous trip.  There were many more buildings and much busier streets.  It had lost some of the magic that I had felt on my previous visit.  But, the beaches were still there, and the sunsets did not disappoint.

  

In Lovina we stayed at this funky, little hotel on the beach called “1000 Dreams.”  The room was nice and had an outdoor bathroom, the first of these we’d encountered.  As you can see, the shower was pretty tweet, er, sweet.

  

Another first for us in Lovina was our introduction to the gekko.  We’ve seen lizards everywhere in SE Asia, but the gekkos are REALLY LOUD!  We’d never heard the sound a gekko makes until one started making noise outside our room one night and woke us up.  It was so loud it sounded like it was right inside the room with us!  The last morning we were in Lovina, we were woken up by a gekko and I was able to scramble for my iPhone just in time to capture a video that recorded his last of about 6 calls…  Now I know why they’re called gekkos: it’s just like it sounds!

After our stay in Lovina, we headed back to the southern part of the island.  We made stops at two places I had been on my first trip:  the waterfall at GitGit and Pura Ulun Danu Bratan.  Both of these places were not as I remembered them.  They were now much more developed, especially Pura Ulun Danu.  That temple, a beautiful one situated on the banks of Lake Bratan, was now flanked by a mini-mall and swarmed by people and tour buses.  When I visited back in 2001, my friends and I may have been the only ones there at the time.  It was unfortunate to see.  It seems like these sights are being ruined by the booming tourist economies these SE Asian countries now depend on.

  

Continuing south, we made a brief detour to the Jatiluwih Rice Terraces, which have been nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  It was definitely worth going out of the way a little bit to see this.  It was just beautiful.

  

  

Our final stop of the day was Pura Tanah Lot.  This temple is in a beautiful location, right out in the ocean.  I had looked forward to coming here, as this is one spot that we missed during my first trip to Bali.  Again, it was very built up and touristy (made me wish we’d gone back in 2001).  But, it was a beautiful place, and a great way to wrap up our north/south tour of the island.

  

 

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Honeymoon in Ubud

Since the very beginning of our relationship, I’ve been hearing stories from John about magical Bali.  I have to admit, I was a little skeptical.  I’m not sure why–I guess I just imagined it being pretty touristy, overrun by ladies hoping to relive Elizabeth Gilbert’s Eat Pray Love experience.  We flew in after dark and drove north about an hour and a half or so to Ubud, the cultural center of the island, where we checked into our beautiful hotel and scarfed down a couple of late night BLTs (yes, they tasted fantastic).  When we woke up the next morning, we drew open the curtains to reveal a view of an infinity pool overlooking rice paddies.  Then I started to get it.  Bali was capturing me, too.

When we were planning our time in Bali, we were a little dismayed to find pretty much everything booked up.  Later on we learned that Australian school holidays coincided with our visit.  But as we scrambled to find a hotel, we stumbled upon a new place that had one room left.  It was over our budget, but it seemed like an ideal honeymoon-type place, so we decided to splurge a bit.  And it was pretty much everything we could have hoped for–intimate, romantic, and those breakfasts!  Our first morning we were pleasantly surprised to discover that a HUGE breakfast was included in the price of the room.  We were handed breakfast menus consisting of five courses, with choices to make for each course.  After we ordered coffee (me), tea (John), juice (both), fruit platter (me), fruit salad (John), bread basket (both), muesli and yogurt (me), banana pancakes (both), poached eggs and hash browns (both), bacon (John), the waitress stood there expectantly until we ashamedly said, “That’s all.”  Every morning in Ubud I ate like it was Thanksgiving day and then waddled out of the dining area vowing that the next day I wouldn’t gorge myself again.  But they had homemade fruit jams (kiwi, mango, papaya, banana), fresh chocolate croissants, and the best poached eggs we’ve ever eaten.  It was too much to resist!

We found it difficult to tear ourselves away from the hotel–it was so peaceful and relaxing–but we did wander into the heart of Ubud several times.  Ubud is small and quaint and full of seemingly ancient, mossy, crumbling, Hindu temples.  As we walked we had to be careful not to step on the floral offerings that were everywhere–the Balinese set out these beautiful, little offerings each morning to thank the good spirits and appease the evil ones.

In central Ubud we explored the Monkey Forest, where the feisty monkeys (yes, they look peaceful here!) got a little closer than I was comfortable with.

      

We also took a 25km bike tour, which we can’t call exercise since we coasted downhill the entire way, starting at the top of a mountain in Kintamani and ending back near Ubud.  Along the way we stopped at a coffee farm to taste civet coffee.

  

Civets apparently love eating coffee berries, and they’re known for picking the very best of the berries, but the beans inside the berries pass through the civets’ digestive systems intact, although somewhat altered by their stomach enzymes.  These beans are then collected and used to make coffee, which in Bali is generally considered to be the most flavorful, smoothest-tasting coffee.  You can see I was a little more apprehensive about the experience than John was.  I couldn’t help but think about the fact that we were drinking coffee that had been collected from civet droppings.  It tasted good, but it was strong!

  

We also took a long walk one day to explore the rice paddies behind our hotel.  I’m not quite sure why, but there’s something about rice paddies that is very romantic, which seems to conflict with the incredibly hard work it takes to farm rice, which in Bali is all tended and harvested by hand.

  

Ducks apparently love to paddle around in the rice paddies.  We loved the cotton ball feathers on the top of the white duck’s head–we’ve never seen plumage like that before!

As John will write in his next post, after a blissful, real-honeymoon-like week we left Ubud to head north to Lovina, stopping along the way at a couple of temples.  We were asked to wrap sarongs around our legs when entering the temple complexes as a sign of respect.  At the first temple we visited, the Temple of the Fallen Moon, I snapped one of my absolute favorite pictures of the trip–when John and the man who drove us north, Bobi, took a moment to admire the temple.  Those two became best buds, laughing together up front as they discovered their mutual love of rock music, while I snoozed in the backseat.

 

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Happy Birthday, John!

We’re celebrating John’s birthday today, or at least I am.  I’m a big fan of birthdays.  John is not a big fan of his.  Each year on his birthday, he kind of falls into a slump.  He’s not very happy about getting older, but he’s lucky to look about 10 years younger than he actually is.  And as John’s dad, Phill, says, “The more birthdays you have, the longer you live.”  So here’s to the birthday boy!

 

 

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The Money Trail – Malaysia

The ringgit is the currency of Malaysia.  Featured prominently on the 5 ringgit note is the Hornbill, a bird we saw a lot of on Pulau Pangkor.  I even fed one a banana – I held up the banana and it plucked it from my fingers with its bill, in mid-flight no less!  Pretty neat.

   

1 USD ~= 3 Ringgit

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American Date Night in Kuala Lumpur

We arrived back in Kuala Lumpur (we had a brief stay there when we first arrived in Malaysia) after a long bus ride from the seaside town of Lumut.  I was excited to be back in the big city–more and more on this trip, I’m realizing how much of a city girl I am–but we just had one night there before we were heading on to Bali.  We’d been talking about going to the movies, and here we had the chance, so we went out for an American date night in Kuala Lumpur.

After a disappointing lunch that day, and a hankering for American food, we decided to start our date night off by heading to Chili’s for dinner.  Yep, they have Chili’s in Malaysia (seven of them, in fact!), and yep, I’m a little ashamed that we headed there instead of sampling the local cuisine, but, hey, sometimes you just want something familiar. Unfortunately, though, it didn’t really hit the spot–the food was pretty awful–my quesadillas were cold and John’s chicken looked like it was still raw in the center–and to top it all off it was pretty expensive for what it was.  But then it was off to the movies, and a bargain at just $8 total for both of our tickets.  We’d been wanting to see The Dark Knight Rises, so we were pretty excited that they still had it in the theaters.  It was definitely entertaining, maybe a little silly, but we enjoyed it.  Then it came time to exit the theater.

The movie theater was located inside a big shopping mall under the Petronas Towers, and by the time the movie had ended, the mall had long since closed, so instead of exiting the way we had entered, the theater staff directed us toward a back exit.  We walked down a long, windowless, institutional-looking hallway with some twists and turns before coming to a sign that I thought–from a quick glance–said that we needed to exit through the parking lot.  From John’s reading of the sign, he thought that it said to exit through the mall to the parking lot, but stupidly, I didn’t believe him.  I mean, the mall was closed, right?  How could we exit through it?  So instead of passing through a doorway into the mall, where the cleaning staff were hard at work, I led us through a doorway that I *thought* would connect to the parking lot.  We could always turn around if we’d gone the wrong way, right?  Realizing we were now in an emergency exit, we started down the stairs, but the flights of stairs just kept going and going and going, with no end in sight.  We were all alone.  It was eerily silent.  I turned and said to John, “Umm, maybe we should go back and go the way you said we should go.”  But he responded, “I don’t think we can get back out that way.”  He’d noticed that when we passed through the door to enter the stairwell, there was a sign that said “One-way door.  No reentry.”  Oh, crap.  I started to panic.

I started running down the stairs faster.  Finally, after what seemed an interminable number of flights, we reached the bottom.  But where was the door?  We turned a corner that led into an endless, dimly-lit hallway with lots of twists and turns.  We kept walking and walking, with me eventually breaking into a frantic run-walk.  I was imagining the worst and the movie hadn’t helped.  Then, after one last turn, there was a short flight of stairs leading up to a row of doors.  I ran up them and slammed myself into the push bar on the door.  It opened to the outside.  Hooray!

I turned and faced John and then started sobbing.  Now it seems totally irrational, but I guess for those few minutes I really thought we were going to be trapped in a dark, freaky emergency exit in a Malaysian mall.  Breaking taboo, I clutched his hand while we walked back to the hotel (PDA–even hand-holding–is generally frowned upon in southeast Asia.).  Whew, what a night.

 

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Pulau Pangkor

As John wrote in his last blog post, after the Cameron Highlands, we headed to the beach to spend a few days on a little Malaysian island called Pulau Pangkor.  It was quiet and totally untouristy, and it gave us the chance to plan out itineraries for our next destinations–Bali, Singapore, Cambodia, Vietnam, and Laos.

  

On Pulau Pangkor, we stayed at a little place called the Nipah Guesthouse, in a bright blue A-frame cottage with a sloping bed that meant we spent our nights there rolling into each other (very romantic!).  We also swam on a pretty, almost empty beach called Coral Bay and ate some great fresh seafood that we picked out ourselves.

  

After four days there, it was back to the big city for a night in Kuala Lumpur before heading on to Bali.

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Highland Adventures

After saying our goodbyes to the Injays, we boarded a plane bound for Malaysia.  But, we wouldn’t be without friends for long.  We quickly met up with our hip, Austin buddies Cheng and Negina, who had been visiting Cheng’s family in Kuala Lumpur.  After a brief pitstop in KL (more on that city to come) we boarded a “VIP Express Bus” to the Cameron Highlands, a series of small towns in the central mountain region of Malaysia.

  

After twisting and turning and almost puking up the winding road to the highlands, we made it safe and sound to the small town of Tanah Rata, where we stayed in a nice, cozy apartment that Negina had arranged for us all.  I wish I had taken a video of the switchbacks on the way there.  They were so tight that the bus had to use both lanes of the road and honk the horn around each turn to make sure oncoming traffic knew we were coming!

The highlands are known for their cooler temperatures – a welcome relief after our time in other parts of SE Asia.  They are also known for tea production and we spent one of our days together touring a Boh tea plantation just outside of town.  It was a beautiful place!

  

 

  

To make the tea, they harvest only the leaves from the tops of the tea bushes.  The bushes are pruned over the years so that they have flat tops that are easier to harvest with hand held machines.  However, the bushes on the steep sides of the mountains are still all picked by hand.  They are not visible in the pictures, but we saw several workers way up on the sides of the mountains harvesting and pruning.  Hard work to be sure.

  

The leaves are brought into this building where they are fermented, dried, sorted and packaged.  It smelled very much like tea, and tea dust was everywhere.  There were several people whose job it was to sweep up all the tea dust so that it could be used in lower quality tea bags.  Nothing went to waste.

Back in town, we pretty much took it easy.  It was great catching up with Cheng and Negina and getting some perspective on Malaysia from them, as they’ve been to Malaysia previously.  We also got to hear about their recent adventures in Myanmar and what’s been going on in Austin since we’ve been gone.  One night we played cards ’till the wee hours of the morning, everyone patiently putting up with my whacked card playing strategies.  Just good times – and so awesome to have things feel like home here on the other side of the world.  Thanks, C&N!!!

When it was time to eat, we had tasty Indian food…  I wasn’t expecting that to be the major cuisine either, but Malaysia is very much a melting pot of Indian, Chinese and Malay people, and that’s certainly what we experienced.  I was still getting over a stomach bug at the time, so my favorite food was the butter and garlic naan, a combination I devised myself and may have convinced the restaurant to put on the menu.

After a fun couple of days with Cheng and Negina, we said our farewells and once again hopped on the bus.  Cheng and Negina headed back to KL to spend a final few days with family before heading back to the States.  We took a different bus, heading to the beach where we could relax and plan our time in countries to come – Indonesia, Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos.

But, getting to the beach turned into a bit of an adventure.  To get there, we had to catch a second bus at the main station in the town of Ipoh, which would then take us to our final destination, Lumut (from Lumut we’d take a ferry to the island of Pangkor and the beach!).  Unfortunately, we missed our stop in Ipoh.  It wasn’t explained to us very well, but the bus to Ipoh actually made two stops.  The first stop was at the main Ipoh bus station, but the bus stopped about a block away from the station itself.  So, we didn’t understand that this was where we needed to disembark.  Thinking the bus route would terminate in the main station, we continued on until the next and final stop at the local Ipoh bus station.

It was obvious that this wasn’t where we were supposed to be.

After a brief moment of panic, we were able to calm ourselves, ask around, and get ourselves pointed (literally – no English here!) in the right direction.  Turns out there was another bus company down the road a ways that drove to Lumut.  So, we got some tickets and waited for about an hour and a half for the bus.

Unlike our bus to the highlands, our bus to Lumut was not so VIP and not so Express.  But, we were on our way to the beach!

It was actually an interesting drive because this was a local bus.  It made a lot of stops along the way, picking up random people on the side of the road in the middle of nowhere and then dropping them off somewhere that seemed equally obscure.  There were several cargo pickups and deliveries being made by the bus, too.  This was definitely everyday living.

Hot, tired, and a little bit dizzy from bus exhaust (I watched the driver pour about a gallon of oil into the bus’s engine before we left Ipoh!), the Lumut bus station was a welcome site!  We arrived just in time to catch the next ferry to Pulau Pangkor, and soon we had reached our final destination.

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The Money Trail – Japan

Ah, the Japanese Yen.  Distinguished from other currencies we’ve used to date in that you have to use so much of it!  No bones about it, Japan is expensive.  Like ten US dollars for one shiny, red apple expensive.

1 USD ~= 78 yen

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Three Months on the Road

We left home three months ago today to set out on this honeymoon adventure. At the moment, having just passed the halfway point of our trip, we’re in our eighth country, with six more to go. Since our blog is woefully behind, so far we’ve only recounted our time in Thailand, China (including Hong Kong), and Japan. Last night we had a “meeting” to assign blog topics and due dates in an effort to catch up. Watch this space! Very soon we’ll be writing about our visits to Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore, Cambodia, and–where we are now–Vietnam.

Over the last few months we’ve gotten good at reading between the lines in hotel reviews, crossing streets full of motorbike traffic (and cars, trucks, buses, and bicycles), identifying unfamiliar fruits and other foods, sleeping on very hard beds, and eating lots of Peanut M&Ms, our go-to comfort food for high-stress travel situations (and celebrations when we overcome those situations). Our energy has flagged at times, so we’ve tried to make it a priority to hit the highlights of each place we visit and then have some downtime, too. Thanks to the TV network AXN, we’re loving watching this season of The Voice (“Same week as US!” is AXN’s tag line), plus reruns of all of the CSI and NCIS series, which are lots of fun to make fun of.

When the next month comes to a close, we’ll be leaving Asia for Australia, making our way from Mumbai to Melbourne. We’re hoping Australia lives up to all of our expectations. I think I’ve pretty much got it pegged now as heaven on earth. John is just looking forward to being able to drink tap water again, and to getting rid of the little critters that have taken up residence in his intestines.

We’re excited to see where the next almost-three months take us and for what we’ll be learning along the way. We’ll be leaving the huge Asian cities behind for some outdoor adventures and *even* camping. (I did make that promise in my wedding vows!) Ok, we will be traveling in a camper van, but baby steps…

Thanks so much to everyone following along for the support and comments along the way!

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